Trail of Tears

"Following the reading I led them in prayer, but I discerned from the first there was something strangely wrong, and there was no concentration of mind among us. Then I heard low mumbling voices all about us. On looking up we saw a company of Comanche Indians -- maybe thirty in all, completely encircling us. They were all down, each on one knee, presenting their muskets before them."

-Thrilling Experiences of Frontier Life in Western Oklahoma", by La Fayette Cassler

Let me first introduce the author -- he is my great-great grandfather, an early homesteader and itinerant preacher who moved to Oklahoma in the 1890's to spread the word of God. More on Brother Cassler tomorrow, but I couldn't think of a better way to introduce the Comanches.

History lesson: For centuries, the Comanches raided and terrorized their many neighboring tribes. Nomadic people, they followed the buffalo, collecting the meat and hides that provided sustenance, shelter, clothing and tools. The Wichita Mountains of what is now southwestern Oklahoma were the center of their range. They were, as their museum's slogan states: "Lords of the Plains".

When the Europeans started settling North Texas in the 1830's, the Comanches terrorized these invaders just as they had their neighboring tribes. They would attack isolated farms, kill the adults, and take the children, raising them as part of their tribe. In an attack in 1836, 9 year old Cynthia Ann Parker was taken in such a raid. She became "Comanche" in the truest sense, refusing as a young adult the opportunity to return to white civilization. She married a warrior and bore a son, Quanah, in 1850.

Quanah grew up to become a fierce warrior and, ultimately, chief of his people. He led many successful raids against both Texans and the US Cavalry. He became the personal target of Army leadership, who recognized that as long as Quanah refused to join the reservation, the settlers would never be safe. While they couldn't defeat Quanah in battle, they realized that there was an easier way -- if they exterminated the buffalo, the Comanches would starve or choose reservation life. The invention of the repeating rifle made that practical, and within two years buffaloes were effectively extinct on the South Plains. Quanah, a realist, moved his people to the reservation. Then, he proved capable of completely integrating into European ways. He had thriving cattle ranches, cotton farms, and negotiated a mutually beneficial grazing rights deal with Texas ranchers. He built Star House, a rambling mansion that served as a seat of government for his people and a "must stop" place for anyone of importance visiting nearby Fort Sill -- including Teddy Roosevelt -- who was so taken with Quanah he invited him to join him at his Inaugural Parade. He also helped bring bison back to western Oklahoma, arranging an import from the Bronx Zoo of 15 animals, descendents of which populate the Wichita Mountains today. Quanah is now buried with honor at Fort Sill, living more than half his life on the reservation, but demonstrating that it was possible to adapt to a different world.

After a short test spin on the bike, Friday I enjoyed my visit to OKC's First Americans Museum, a compilation of stories and heritage from the 39 tribes that were forcibly relocated to reservations in Oklahoma. I learned not only of the relocation, but also the forced assimilation, especially enforcing English language in schools and Christianity to supplant Native religions that were pervasive in the period after Oklahoma statehood. I also toured the state capitol -- the only one with an oil derrick on the front lawn!

Today's ride took me through much of the Comanche Nation, starting in Lawton (pop. 90,000, and home to Fort Sill). Given that there are only 17,000 Comanches, and only 7,000 in the Lawton area -- Sarah and I agreed that despite being in Comanche County in the Comanche Nation, outside of the casinos and the Comanche National Museum (which we enjoyed), we would never know that we spent the day in the Comanche Nation. The museum had a sizeable exhibit on the Codetalkers -- Native Americans who used their unique language to carry coded messages during WWII (an irony given that most of the Codetalkers had experienced forced language assimilation). The Museum of the Great Plains was also a treat -- it highlighted the natural history of the area (who knew that prairie grass grew roots 10 feet deep!). We were also taken by our first experience with a prairie dog colony (video here).

Lots of signs of Quanah today -- I missed seeing his gravesite (need an ID to get onto Fort Sill, sorry, didn't bring one on the bike). I missed seeing Quanah's Star House (it was transported to the small town of Cache by a gentleman hoping to turn it into a tourist attraction, but instead he is just letting it rot, and I didn't want to pay him money to see it). I did make my final destination the highway marker to Quanah -- and it did him and the Comanches honor IMO, you can see it in the photos.

There was less of the feeling of this being Native land than I expected or hoped for. Assimilation has done its work here. I am hopeful to have a different perspective visiting the Osage and Cherokees later this week. And, to learn more about Quanah and the Comanches, I highly recommend this book (and, thank you Kyle for bringing it to my attention).